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1.10.2014

A good person to know

I first met Megan at a conference, I think? I’m a real loser when it comes to conferences - crowds make me feel like hiding under furniture, and my brain is a wide-mesh sieve for faces and names - but I think that’s how it happened. We met at a conference, and at some point down the line, she happened to hire our friend Sam to do the website for her granola company Marge, and at some point further down the line, Megan and Sam started dating, and at some point down the line from there, she became Our Friend Megan. I hope she will still be Our Friend Megan after I post this picture of her and Sam being pummeled by wind on Puget Sound.


If you like to eat, she’s a good person to know, especially if you like to eat breakfast, and particularly if you like to eat things involving oats. When I run out of homemade granola, hers is the only one I buy. In recent years, she’s done a lot of playing around with other grains, too, grains that tend to intimidate me but luckily not Megan, and about ten days ago, her first cookbook, Whole-Grain Mornings, was published by Ten Speed Press. You might have already heard of it - Heidi, for one, just mentioned Megan’s California Barley Bowl - but as soon as I tried her method for making steel-cut oatmeal, I knew I had to write about it.



I’ve been making oatmeal the same way forever: boiling three cups of water and half a teaspoon of kosher salt, stirring in a cup of steel cut oats, lowering the heat so that the pot just simmers, and letting it go like that until the cereal has thickened. It gets the job done, and it also has the benefit of being easy to make with one hand while I have a 25-pound person wrapped around my hip like a monkey. My oatmeal is good - I originally typed "my oatmeal is food," and that’s also true - but Megan’s oatmeal is better.

It starts with an ingenious (ingenious!) idea: you toast the oats in butter. (!) This is, admittedly, somewhat difficult to do with one hand while you have a 25-pound person wrapped around your hip like a monkey, and if you saw me on my first time attempting it, you would also have heard a lot of cussing (me) and whining (me and June). But if you have two hands, it’s no big deal. It’s no more difficult than boiling water - about three parts water and one part milk, to be specific - which is what you do while the oats are toasting. You’ll know the oats are ready when the kitchen smells like you’re baking shortbread, and then you scrape the toasted oats into the pot of simmering water and milk and let the mixture roll slowly along for about half an hour, until the oats are plump and you’ve got soft, creamy porridge. I recommend that you top it with maple syrup.



I don’t know whether it’s the oat-toasting or the ratio of water to milk, or both, but Megan’s is a very special oatmeal.  It’s velvety, velvet punched up with chewy oats. It’s perfectly salted and perfectly not-sweet. The entire recipe, which feeds four, has only a tablespoon of butter and a cup of milk, which I consider very reasonable, but it feels rich, satisfying. I might even call it luxurious, a word that was never intended for oatmeal. As soon as we’d finished our first batch, I made a second - this time at night, after June was in bed, so that I had full use of my limbs - and I can report that it reheats very well. It’s even good at room temperature, which probably sounds revolting, but I like it, so be nice.  I made my third batch last night, and June and I took down half of it this morning.  June likes hers with applesauce and plain yogurt, eats a full adult-size portion, and then mooches from my bowl when hers is gone.

Megan, it’s a keeper. xx


Megan’s Steel-Cut Oatmeal
Adapted from Whole-Grain Mornings, by Megan Gordon

The original version of this recipe includes vanilla extract and raisins, but I’m a plain-oatmeal person, so what follows is the basic portion of the recipe.  I hope Megan will forgive me for being boring.

I should note that both Megan and I use Diamond Crystal brand kosher salt, which tastes less salty than Morton brand. And as far as natural cane sugar goes, I use unbleached and unrefined cane sugar - bought in bulk at my local supermarket - but you could also use demerara, turbinado, or muscovado.

1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter
1 cup (175 grams) steel-cut oats
3 ¼ cups (780 ml) water
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
1 tablespoon (12 grams) natural cane sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Maple syrup, brown sugar, or honey for serving

In a heavy skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the oats, and cook, stirring occasionally, until quite fragrant, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

In a 2 ½- to 3-quart saucepan, bring the water, milk, sugar, and salt to a simmer. (Be careful: I find that this mixture goes quickly from zero to boiling and has a tendency to boil over.) Stir in the toasted oats. Adjust the heat to maintain a slow simmer, and partially cover the saucepan.  Cook, stirring occasionally to prevent clumping and scorching, until the mixture has thickened and the oats are soft, 25 to 30 minutes. The cereal will still be quite loose at this point, but don’t worry; it will continue to thicken. Remove the pan from the heat, allow it to rest for a few minutes (still partially covered), and then serve hot, with maple syrup, brown sugar, or honey.

Yield: 4 servings

68 Comments:

Blogger aspiritofsimplicity said...

oh I am definetely trying this. I love oatmeal and I would eat it at room temp also. I have even been known to put it in a bowl with milk, honey and dried fruit in the fridge overnight and eat it cold in the morning.

3:38 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous sebellin-ross.com said...

Butter. Of course. OF COURSE. Almost everything I made at culinary school had butter. Fat = mouthfeel so butter = delicious! Must try.

3:57 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous Alex said...

Funny! We just posted this recipe as well. The toasting is seriously amazing!

4:01 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous Slice of Mid-Life said...

Hey! There's the new book! When will it be released?

4:04 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous Alex said...

OK, not the same recipe... But same toasting :) so good!

4:15 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hmm sounds very tasty. I make mine in my rice cooker - think I'm going to adapt these ingredients to it this weekend. Thank you for sharing.

5:14 PM, January 10, 2014  
Blogger Katharine said...

I'll have to try this. However, my favorite way to cook steel-cut oatmeal is to cook it in the crockpot overnight. The secret is to use a water bath method. You must find a heat-safe container that is small enough to fit in your crockpot, but large enough to provide a decent portion of oatmeal. I use a 1-qt. pyrex glass measuring cup that fits nicely into my crockpot. I simply measure a 1:4 ratio of oats to water (or a water/milk mixture, as you like) and put it on low around 10 pm. It's ready and perfect by 7 am the next day.

5:17 PM, January 10, 2014  
Blogger sweetcaroline said...

Maybe you already do this, but we (who have 4 kids under 7 and therefore ALWAYS have someone in arms or under foot while cooking) follow the night-before method for steel cut oats. Basically, toast the oats then pour in 3 cups water and bring to a boil for about 5 minutes, then turn it off and walk away. Next morning, add your cup of milk and warm it up. Perfectly cooked, creamy, delicious, lovely lovely loveliness and no cooking with small people and morning tempers. Anyway, thanks for sharing, I will definitely be seeking out the book!
Caroline

6:22 PM, January 10, 2014  
Blogger Amy Gabriel said...

Ok, I'm sold. I will try this, and chances are I'll like it, even though I've taken the stance since childhood that I don't like oatmeal. But I'm a big person now, who's willing to try new things, and think that this recipe may change my mind. I plan on adding raisins and brown sugar. I remain optimistic.

6:57 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous Julie said...

Molly and Megan, this sounds divine. I want to go to bed right now so that I can wake up and make some. Thanks for sharing!

7:56 PM, January 10, 2014  
Blogger Erin said...

Nice. I just bought a hand-turned spurtle, so of course I now must make oatmeal!
I'll be trying this this weekend. :)

9:02 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous Stephanie said...

Oh, lovely! I always love new ideas for oats -- I think it's the Scottish in me.

I first encountered making oatmeal with milk on my honeymoon in Scotland and have always done it that way since -- but toasting the oats in butter first is absolute genius! This will definitely be in our breakfast bowls next week . . .

9:18 PM, January 10, 2014  
Anonymous sharon said...

I've never been a huge fan of steel cut oats, but I think I will try this recipe. I love the idea of toasting the oats in butter {what's not to love about toasting anything in butter??}. I read about the California Barley Bowl last night, and that also sounds delicious!

12:54 AM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger PalmerGal said...

Oh I am so making this. We love steelcut osts anyway, but this sounds like the amazing oats we had in Ireland last fall. Thanks.

1:18 AM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Mardi Michels said...

Megan's book is on its way to me right now :) I can't wait to try this recipe - sounds like a revelation!

6:06 AM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Jordan O. said...

I read this post last night and knew I had to make it this morning. I did and it was a great decision. It's the best oatmeal I've had in my life - and I've had a lot of oatmeal, let me tell you.

Thank you for sharing the recipe and making it to appealing with your mouth-watering description!

7:23 AM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Megan Gordon said...

Oh yes...YOU + Delancey alone are the reason I met Sam! I remember asking you at that weird conference if he was a 60 year old man as I'd only corresponded with him via email :) We're both so thankful that Delancey, in a funny way, brought us together :) And I'm thankful that the oatmeal made its way into your house and that June is a fan. That's endorsement right there! Hope to see you guys soon. xox

7:44 AM, January 11, 2014  
Anonymous Victoria said...

Oh, this sounds delicious. I DO use the word luxurious for oatmeal because if I could always eat it my favorite way, it would be with a pat of butter, some brown sugar, and (dare I tell you) a little heavy cream.

When I'm being good, I eat it with cold milk poured on it as I go along, the way a good Scot would.

Sounds like a song: Oh, what would a good Scot do if a good Scot would be good? I'll have to ask my friend Doug who wears his clan's kilt on Thanksgiving. (Isn't that really wonderful?)

Now I have to go prove I'm not a robot. Hehe.

9:53 AM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger courtney said...

Funny that in the seven years I've been reading your stuff, making your recipes, and referring to you as my one-sided virtual friend, Molly, oatmeal would prompt my first comment here. I've had days when oatmeal is the only thing that sounds good to eat (while pregnant), and there are times when cold (not even room temperature) oats are delicious. April Bloomfield's lovely recipe of rolled and steel-cut has been my go-to (I like less milk, more water), and Heidi Swanson's baked oatmeal is nice for a change, but this one with the toasted buttery oats just might be perfect. Thank you.

10:17 AM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Unknown said...

But I love that photo of the 2 of them!

10:39 AM, January 11, 2014  
Anonymous Allyss said...

Delicious. Read this recipe this morning and marched straight to the kitchen. I avoid oats and usually make hot cereal from rolled barley, and I am happy to report that toasting the barley in butter is a significant improvement! I topped mine with a little honey and a big handful of pomegranate seeds, which brighten things up. The perfect start to this wintry day...

11:32 AM, January 11, 2014  
Anonymous meg said...

I can never get enough oatmeal recipes, and this one appears to be a keeper! I'll bet it would be fantastic with coconut milk.

12:47 PM, January 11, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I made this today. Fantastic. I used 2% milk, added in some vanilla, and topped it off with honey.

2:34 PM, January 11, 2014  
OpenID girlseeksplace said...

I'm a recent oatmeal convert so I'll definitely be trying this at some point. I do like stuff in my oatmeal, though.

2:35 PM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Jennie said...

I am currently loving April Bloomfield's porridge. It's half rolled oats and half steel cut oats cooked with equal parts milk and water with a fair amount of salt. Once you've added your maple syrup, the salty sweet magic is pretty awesome.

5:46 PM, January 11, 2014  
Anonymous wandering educators said...

i LOVE steel cut oats. I can't wait to make this - thank you (and megan)...

5:57 PM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Margo said...

we've been putting heavy cream on our hot cereal recently and that is DEFINITELY luxurious. the food of fairytales in forest cottages.

Also, I learned that if you add the dry stuff to the cold water/milk and THEN bring it to a boil, it is even more creamy.

I think I will be buying some steelcut oats again.

6:11 PM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Monica said...

This sounds like a good oatmeal to know, too! ; ) I love steel cut oatmeal and have it a few times a week (not always in the morning) but I've always cooked it with plain water and then sweetened it with honey for eating. Maybe it's time to get a little bit more adventurous. The book sounds great, too. I love breakfast and learning more about incorporating whole grains.

7:35 PM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger jerbear said...

Hello! I've been reading your blog for a couple of years now and have never commented- I love it.

For whatever reason, this post of all posts made me want to comment. I have a love--meh relationship with oatmeal but when the pendulum swings towards love, I also, as some of the earlier commenters reported, use the overnight method. I basically soak the steel cut oats in a bunch of water (I don't measure). Then in the morning, I pour off the excess water, add mostly milk to cover the oats by a bit, bring to a boil, and turn off the heat and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. I started doing this to reduce the amount of time it takes the oats to cook, and also to prevent the oats from scorching (less time with the heat on, less chance of me walking away and not stirring it). Yea oatmeal!

7:39 PM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Shira Green said...

what's steel cut oats?
I live in Israel, and basically we have the big kind and the smaller, quick-cooking kind. I usually use the first for basic oatmeal...

11:32 PM, January 11, 2014  
Blogger Sara said...

Molly, Hi! I'm happy to hear you report that this reheats well. I'm going to try making it tomorrow night & bringing it to work with me in the morning. Trying to get all 3 kids & myself ready means that every morning is a chaotic rush that usually finds me putting my makeup on in the bathroom at work and realizing at about 10am that I'm starving & have no breakfast. I read all of Megan's book & truly loved it! It really is beautiful.. and by the way, her recipe for Dark Chocolate Hazelnut Spread is delicious and makes a great, quick breakfast!

1:07 AM, January 12, 2014  
Blogger Elizabeth said...

Do you think this would work with almond milk and butter? I never have regular milk around because it doesn't agree with me, but I can do a tbsp. of butter ... and I really want to try this!!

4:36 AM, January 12, 2014  
Anonymous Carlinne @Cook with 2 Chicks said...

This looks great. I love when a simple tweak to a recipe makes a huge difference. Also, so excited to see your new book is being released in May. Congratulations!

4:52 AM, January 12, 2014  
Blogger Christine said...

Occasionally I'll make my oatmeal subbing coconut milk for 1/3 of the water and think it's decadent indeed. Then I forget about it and go back to the regular way.

The toasting and butter make perfect sense, but I wouldn't ever have thought of it. Yum!

12:20 PM, January 12, 2014  
Blogger Kate Ramos said...

I've been seeing Megan's recipes all over the place and am now convinced I must buy it, how could one go wrong with butter? Your writing is wonderful, as always.

2:26 PM, January 12, 2014  
Blogger Sasha said...

In 'The Breakfast Book' Marion Cunningham recommends toasting oats in the oven for a few minutes before simmering them on the stove with water to make oatmeal. Toasting the oats in butter indeed sounds like the deluxe, luxurious version.

Cannot wait to call this breakfast tomorrow!

3:03 PM, January 12, 2014  
Blogger John Y. Chang, MBA said...

A short while ago I got hooked on steel cut oats at a local cafe near the office I worked. Until then I considered oatmeal this gooey cement that I wouldn't even feed small animals.

But something about the combination with glazed bananas.. YUM! Makes me want to run out & get a can of oatmeal just thinking about it!

7:21 PM, January 12, 2014  
OpenID mustardseedhope said...

I love the simple, delicious creativity! Thanks.

7:58 PM, January 12, 2014  
Blogger Elizabeth said...

Just made this to share with my 1-year-old daughter for breakfast, and it is phenomenal! Even after being warned, I boiled over the milk (can't help a diaper emergency, although I should have turned off the flame), and I burned the oats a teeny bit (which I actually recommend - it tastes amazing!). Anne gives a big thumbs-up to June's serving suggestion - I never would have thought to add yogurt! We are out of applesauce but a smashed up banana and a bit of honey were perfect. Thanks for this - it's going in our regular rotation!

5:45 AM, January 13, 2014  
OpenID turtleinseattle said...

Yum! We always toast our steel cut oats...sometimes butter and sometimes coconut oil Super yummy!

2:21 PM, January 13, 2014  
Anonymous Lisa B-K said...

Trying, for sure. Teenage Lovely Is all about oatmeal these days.

6:55 PM, January 13, 2014  
Anonymous Marian@Apricot Tart said...

It's 45 degrees Centigrade here in Adelaide, South Australia as I read this post - but it's left me hankering for a frosty cold morning on which to try a bowl of this!

10:55 PM, January 13, 2014  
Anonymous Jeff @ Cheese-burger.net said...

Toasting the oats in butter is truly ingenious! I just can't stop eating this oatmeal.

5:11 AM, January 14, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This is very similar to Alton Brown's recipe. Yummy! Have you tried Cook's Illustrated Ten-Minute Steel-Cut Oatmeal? It is an overnight version - the Apple-Cinnamon recipe is so good! You replace the milk with cider and add grated apples.

7:26 AM, January 14, 2014  
Anonymous molly said...

Wait, did you just make oatmeal sound sexy? I think you did. I'm not sure that's even okay?

Whatever. If Megan's pushing it, and you, also, I'm on it. And man, if June's mooching? I'd best get those oats a'toasting.

xo,
Molly

p.s.: My favorite peanut butter cookies, by Nancy Silverton, which I think Brandy featured a while back?, begin exactly this way: toasting oats in (a sh*tload of) butter. They are probably illegal. But LA LA LAAA....

2:33 PM, January 14, 2014  
Blogger Sarah said...

I didn't think oatmeal could be this good! Thank you for sharing this recipe. I made it Sunday night to have breakfast ready for the week and it is delicious. I added raisins and even with only 1 tablespoon of sugar it tastes sweeter than that (which is a good thing). Maybe it is the sweetness in whole milk? Anyways I highly recommend trying this recipe!

7:56 PM, January 14, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

You could try one of these for June..it saved my arms while cooking with my toddler. http://www.amazon.com/Little-Partners-Learning-Tower-Natural/dp/B001ECHXVC

We got ours on craigslist for a quarter of the price.

6:53 AM, January 15, 2014  
Blogger food goddess said...

Here in the Philippines we have a rice variety called pinipig. My grandmother used to toast it in a dry iron skillet until brown and crisp. And we'd eat it w milk and sugar like cereal. Only it was better, crisp outside and chewy still. Your recipe is the Best oatmeal ever! And I don't like oatmeal. Thanks!!!

6:57 AM, January 15, 2014  
Blogger k-rae said...

So, I read your post last night and since I eat oatmeal for breakfast every single day - except for the days when I somehow skip breakfast - I had to try it this morning. Soooo glad that I did. My husband even complained less than usual about having to eat it ;-)

10:36 AM, January 15, 2014  
Anonymous CKipps said...

I agree with sebellin-ross who said of course, of course. I love oatmeal, as well, and I feel like, duh, of course toasting the oats in butter would make it, you know, toastier, roastier -- can't wait to try!

7:01 PM, January 15, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I made this oatmeal this morning, and it was transcendent. It was beyond oatmeal. I kept sighing with delight and joy as I ate it. I added raisins and vanilla to mine because I like that kind of thing, but I can't wait to try other variations!

7:56 AM, January 18, 2014  
Anonymous Di said...

If I were to add the vanilla extract as called for in the original recipe, would it be to the mix of milk/water/salt/sugar? About 1 tsp?

7:39 PM, January 18, 2014  
Blogger Xani said...

So good! Much richer and more flavorful than plain old boiled. However I think in the future I will combine this with the Cook's Country 10 minute recipe: I will toast the oats, then stir them into 3 cups boiling water, turn off and cover overnight. In the am scoop out my portion (put the rest int he fridge for future mornings), heat with a 1/4 of milk, and devour :)

7:49 AM, January 20, 2014  
Blogger Margarita Larrazabal said...

This oatmeal was simply delightful! You so aptly described it... I ate it with a touch of maple syrup and then my second bowl with golden raisins and cinnamon... Oh, so so so good.

8:32 AM, January 20, 2014  
Blogger Amy said...

We had this for breakfast this morning and it was delicious! A friend brought us a bottle of cane syrup, and its light molasses flavor made a really good sweetener for these oats.

3:34 PM, January 20, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

You might want to give April Bloomfield's porridge a try.

8:43 AM, January 22, 2014  
Anonymous Chris said...

I've always eaten my oat meal the traditional way. Oat-roasting with Megan’s Special oatmeal? Something really new to me and strikes me as being an exciting, different way of enjoying this healthy food. I sure would give the recipe a try. Like June, I just love putting some applesauce into it!

1:55 AM, January 28, 2014  
Blogger Megan Lazar said...

After making another batch of your ham and bean soup, I had some slices of bacon leftover...so I decided to try a naughty version of oatmeal influenced by this recipe as well. I used rolled oats and water, but I first toasted my oats in the bacon fat from one slice of bacon. I had the finished oatmeal with toasted walnuts, a teensy bit of brown sugar, and half a slice of crumbled bacon (the other half went missing while I was waiting for the oatmeal to cook). Delicious!

6:04 AM, January 30, 2014  
Blogger Melissa Powers Bavido said...

I finally made this recipe this morning!! And YUM! I finally love steel cut oatmeal. Thank you Thank you for sharing. I added some brown sugar and dried cherries and I might even eat my leftovers for lunch.

10:14 AM, January 31, 2014  
OpenID ourpeasandcarrots said...

This is delicious! I've made it twice now, first with 1% milk (because that's what we always drink), and then with whole milk (because it was on hand from another recipe). It turned out much better with 1%, though - the whole milk made quite a skin and didn't seem to get absorbed into the oats as well. Also, I didn't think it added a "richness" that I'd expected versus the 1%. Thoughts, Molly? Do you use the whole milk for June, or do you prefer it? Btw, your girl is ADORABLE! Also, yes, I can confirm this recipe can be made with a baby on the hip. Lol!

2:38 PM, February 03, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

So simple but so good thanks for posting. I even put olive oil in and omitted the sugar so good!

4:07 PM, February 03, 2014  
Blogger Molly said...

ourpeasandcarrots, I use whole milk because that's what I prefer, yep, both for June and for us. I've gone through stages of 2%, 1%, skim, etc. but switched to whole milk a couple of years ago, when I was pregnant. (I really like what Nina Planck has to say about the subject: http://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/12/opinion/nyregionopinions/12CIplanck.html?_r=0.) But that's so interesting that you found that the 1% seemed to absorb better! I'll ask Megan if she's tried it.

9:39 AM, February 04, 2014  
Anonymous Gwen @ GwensFishFood said...

I just made this oatmeal, cutting the recipe so it only made a single serving and using home-made almond milk instead of regular, and holy bejesus. I've always loved oatmeal but I think this might have been the perfect bowl. Absolutely creamy and rich, and I didn't even add any extra sugar or sweetener at the end.

Thank you for posting!

7:52 AM, February 07, 2014  
Blogger Clara Pang said...

I learned this method from Alton Brown. The nuttiness that the toasting in butter brings out is lovely.

10:22 AM, February 18, 2014  
Anonymous Andie P. said...

Just popping in from Seattle's Ponti Seafood Grill restaurant. What a fabulous blog! The imagery, writing, and recipes are to die for. Thanks for having such a great talent- we will be following you! Andie, Social Media Marketing Manager-- Ponti Seafood Grill

2:25 PM, February 19, 2014  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This oatmeal is awesome! It smells like peanut butter cookies, and tastes even better. Thank you for posting, and I'll be buying Megan's book. P.S. I got an advanced copy of Delancey about a month ago, and it's really charming and warm and honest...I'll never forgive Bon Appetit for dropping your column!

8:30 AM, February 23, 2014  
Blogger Keila Gelue said...

This new oatmeal recipe sounds great, I tend to get tired of the same boring oatmeal. I will try it without the sugar though and maybe adding some lime zest...lol. I can't wait !!!

7:52 AM, March 07, 2014  
Blogger tannaz sassooni said...

hiya, just a note that this recipe isn't in the recipe index. (not that that stopped me from finding it. looks delicious -- can't wait to make it!)

6:01 PM, March 29, 2014  

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