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October 19

I come from a family that goes to church only on occasional Christmas Eves, but somehow, I have come to love the feeling of being inside a church. I like the high ceilings, the wood and the stone and the gold leaf, and I like them best when they’re empty. There’s no other silence like it. My favorite church is in Paris, and it’s called Saint-Sulpice. I first loved it because my grandmother loved it, but now I love it because I do.

I never forget to go to Saint-Sulpice. I usually go on a weekday, when it’s quiet, and I make sure that I have some coins on me, so that I can light a candle. My grandmother used to ask me to light candles for my uncle Jerry and my aunt Millicent, who both passed away when I was a kid. This time, I lit a candle for her.

I don’t use the word majestic often, but Saint-Sulpice is majestic. I’ve seen it described as gloomy, but it’s never felt that way to me. I like that the walls are gray. When the light from the windows hits them, they give off a soft, humming glow. It always feels warmer in Saint-Sulpice than I expect it to. It also has a nice smell. Does it mean anything if I say that it smells like rocks? And very faintly, the incense from the Sunday before.

In my normal life, I don’t think a lot about my grandmother, but when I’m in Saint-Sulpice, I feel close to her.

My mother and my grandmother took a trip to Europe together in 1986. They were in Paris for a few days, and they stayed at the Hotel Recamier, on the Place Saint-Sulpice, next to the church. My grandmother had stayed there before, and she liked it because it wasn’t overly touristy. She thought the area felt neighborhoody, like someplace you’d want to live. Of course, it takes real means to live on the Place Saint-Sulpice; I’ve heard that Catherine Deneuve lives there, or once did. But the rest of us can visit, at least. My dad once took a picture of my mother there, near the fountain. She’s wearing her hair down, which she almost never does, and it’s held back with a wide headband. You can tell she felt very chic.

The summer that I was 18, I went backpacking around Europe with my cousin Katie, and in Paris, we stayed in a hostel near the Jardin du Luxembourg. I think it was on the boulevard Saint-Michel. I helped Katie to dye pink streaks in her hair in the bathroom. One day, we went to Saint-Sulpice to light our candles, and there was a flyer on the door for an organ concert that was to take place the following Sunday afternoon. We decided to go, and when the day came, we put on skirts. I remember feeling very grown up about it. But the chairs in Saint-Sulpice are very small, even for teenage girls, and we were antsy and bored. At some point, we started whispering to each other, and then the whispering led to giggling, and then an older woman in front of us turned around and, with immense scorn, told us to be quiet. We agreed later that she had been unnecessarily mean, but I felt bad about it. I thought about it for a long time afterward.

In any case, I always go to Saint-Sulpice. I went there two weeks ago, on a Wednesday, and then I went back again that Friday to sit on a bench by the fountain and have a solo picnic. I brought bread and cheese and Alain Milliat's pêche de vigne nectar. (Winnie introduced me to it, and it’s incredible. You can buy it at La Grande Epicerie de Paris.) There were two young Frenchmen sitting on the bench behind me, and they had a bag from the Pierre Hermé shop around the corner, on rue Bonaparte. Though they looked like a couple of American pro football players, they daintily passed macarons and a 2000 Feuilles back and forth, taking studious bites, analyzing. “The caramel flavor is good and deep, but also light somehow!” “It's amazing how delicate the pastry on this millefeuille is! So caramelized!”

I ate my lunch and listened.


Blogger Rebekka Seale said...

This is perfect.

11:39 AM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous Elissa said...

Beautiful, as always. I'm here at home, being a nurse to my convalescing partner, but you transported me, and for that, I thank you. Agreed on the empty church thing: my favorite is the tiny chapel in Monteriggioni.

11:44 AM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger alexandria said...

Your stories and photographs combined are beautiful. Thank you for sharing as you do.

11:48 AM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Giulia said...

Lovely post. I've been there a couple of times and loved it. I also love churches in Italy - they were the only place to cool down on a hot summers day.

11:53 AM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Danielle said...

i know exactly what you mean about loving churches, especially on one's own. loved this post.

11:58 AM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Megan said...

I've shared this poem 1,000 times (I can't stop! It's that good!), but I have to again because it reminds me of this post, that particular kind of silence.

Extinction of Silence
by A.E. Stallings

That it was shy when alive goes without saying.
We know it vanished at the sound of voices
Or footsteps. It took wing at the slightest noises,
Though it could be approached by someone praying.

We have no recordings of it, though of course
In the basement of the Museum, we have some stuffed

Moth-eaten specimens—the Lesser Ruffed
And Yellow Spotted—filed in narrow drawers.

But its song is lost. If it was related to
A species of Quiet, or of another feather,

No researcher can know. Not even whether
A breeding pair still nests deep in the bayou,

Where legend has it some once common bird
Decades ago was first not seen, not heard.

12:02 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous Molly said...

I think if I walked into my grandmother's synagogue -- she passed at the beginning of my freshman year of college 15 years ago -- I would break down and sob. I've never been back, and I don't know if I'd be able to handle it. I think the building is now a Latino rec center, but if i walked in, I bet I could still smell a faint whisper of herring and sweet wine.

It's pretty amazing how this collection of emotions, religion, and, yes, food, all come together in such a vivid memory for so many.

12:07 PM, November 03, 2011  
OpenID katieleigh said...

Gorgeous. I haven't been to Saint-Sulpice, but I do love empty churches - especially in Paris. Thanks for sharing these photos and memories.

12:08 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger emmeline said...

saint sulpice! my absolute favorite as well. i loved going to the place on sunday mornings in winter to watch people leave the service. the fontaine st sulpice is lovely, too.

12:08 PM, November 03, 2011  
OpenID allieeatsmeat said...

These photos are so lovely, really capture the essence of the place - such a beautiful church.

12:12 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous Jane said...

My favorite church is Wells Cathedral, with its soaring staircase (hollows have been worn in the stone steps) and tranquil cloisters. I always like to visit British churches for evensong. There is a great sense of eternity in a place going about its intended purpose as it has for hundreds of years.

12:23 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous Cheriepicked said...

Completely agree with you on the silence that an empty church holds. It is truly, like nothing else, like nowhere else. I make a point to visit churches whenever I leave the country. Love the churches in Europe, & Mexico as well. Here, in Seattle, I love the tiny beautiful chapel on the campus of Seattle University. Have you been? Its architecturally awe inspiring...I think so anyway. Ive been going there regularly for 10 years, and Im nothing close to religious.

12:28 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger J said...

The cavernous space of a cathedral does create a kind awe-inspiring silence when it's quiet. I did most of my church exploring in Italy, but I imagine the feeling's the same for an American in France: I'm struck most by the sense of age and history. Even the oldest US building seems shiny new in comparison. I find it very humbling, in the best possible way.

12:40 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Margaret said...

For me, that church is Notre Dame des Victoires, a little Right Bank affair that is dimly lit, and not majestic and impressive, but rather, hushed, reverent, humble, and fervent. When I discovered it for the first time, with all the petitions placed in stone from two centuries ago, I was overwhelmed by some universal emotion-spirit feeling. Powerful.https://www.google.com/search?q=notre+dame+des+victoires+photos&hl=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Le-yTqaIIorl0QHuh7jFBA&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1099&bih=627&sei=%20Me-yTurHDaje0QHv1tzPBA#hl=en&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=notre+dame+des+victoires+paris+photos&pbx=1&oq=notre+dame+des+victoires+paris+photos&aq=f&aqi=&aql=1&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=8616l9714l0l9900l6l6l0l0l0l1l173l704l1.4l5l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=e006495912df123d&biw=1099&bih=627

12:48 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous noelle {simmer down!} said...

I sought out St. Sulpice on my first visit to Paris (age 16) because my uncle, who had organized the trip for myself and my best friend, is a Sulpitian (in the Catholic church there are different orders of priests, for example the Jesuits or the Franciscans). I recall it being one of the more subdued churches we saw (and there were a LOT on that trip!) but no less majestic for it.

12:53 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Debbie said...

What a lovely post....

12:57 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Josephine said...

Gorgeous photos!

I had to stop reading in the middle of this post, because it reminded me of my grandmother and how much I miss her. But I came back to finish the post later :)

1:00 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Pia said...

A post of such beauty, Molly. There is something about the inside of a church, its quiet pillars and cold floors, that goes beyond religion. I remember a holiday in Ooty in South India, when I was thirteen - we came upon a beautiful white church, and I asked my parents and my brother to walk on, and I went inside by myself. The church was empty, and I sat there by myself for a long, long time. The silence was so beautiful.
I love the photograph of your feet on the stairs. There's a stillness in that, that kind of sums up the post.

1:17 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous Kate @ Savour Fare said...

It's wonderful to see Paris, a city I know so well, reflected through someone else's eyes and filtered through someone else's memories. I love the Cafe de la Mairie on the Place Ste. Sulpice -- they used to make one of my favorite Cafe Cremes in Paris. My parents loved to stay at the Hotel Bonaparte, a few steps away from Ste. Sulpice, and we always ate at a little Savoyarde restaurant which my father said had the best steak in Paris (and I always loved for the tartiflette.) It's sadly, no longer there, but the church is ...

1:34 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous Luisa said...

I used to live just up the street from S.S., on rue Bonaparte. Had many a baguette sandwich lunch perched at the edge of the fountain before going back to work. And yes, it's true that Catherine Deneuve lived on the Place - she has a penthouse apt overlooking the church.

2:00 PM, November 03, 2011  
OpenID lizlemonnights said...

I love that you sat and listened. As always, beautifully written. Thank you.

3:11 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Sprog said...

I ended up in Saint-Sulpice after reading a book called "Angel of the Left Bank", which was all about the Delacroix in that church and how it made the author have a religious crisis.

I loved the painting and I loved the church even more. I was raised an atheist and my mother abhors places like Saint-Sulpice but I am much more like you in that I love going to them, expecially when they are empty.

They're high ceilings always long silences always give me a sense of solice I wish I could find in more places.

3:32 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Claudia said...

Candles seem to be a thing of the past in American churches. They were so soul-satisfying. I miss them. Lovely, thoughtful posting.

4:25 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Amanda :: Grace & Gusto said...

Beautiful post, absolutely lovely.

My husband and I spent a good part of a day in the Duomo in Milan, and it was very nearly life-altering. We had never seen a church like that before. Stoic, immense, intensely peaceful. So large that, meandering around the back, we had no idea there was a Mass going on!

This post really brings me back, thank you so much.

4:36 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Jess said...

This essay does something so special, Molly.

4:45 PM, November 03, 2011  
OpenID bferry said...

Goosebump-inducing, my friend.

4:58 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Laurel said...

Very beautiful pictures!

5:15 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Zoomie said...

I think my favorite is St. Eustache (we call it St. Mustache). Not as old as Notre Dame but wonderfully old, quiet and still. Near the old Les Halles.

5:25 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger sonrie said...

thank you for this tribute to a beautiful space and its' memories.

5:47 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger katie said...

I love the way you travel, or at least the way you write about travel. capturing the beautiful, authentic moments is what it's all about. sitting outside somewhere listening to conversations is the best.

6:53 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Kit Yoon said...

Though I am a Buddhist, I have to agree with you about the silence in a church not unlike the one you love. There is absolute peace and calmness and a sense of something greater. I especially love the small churches in remote hamlets of Corsica. They look abandoned, and yet, still well loved. Those are some of the most authentic sacred places... I am sure you were able to find yourself back in a place so full of memories.

7:00 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Julie said...

Such a lovely sense of place and peace that you've shared with us. Thank you for allowing us to tag along on your adventure.

7:01 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ah, your grandmother was so pleased.

7:37 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger Aubrey said...

This brought tears to my eyes at the very end because I miss Paris. I lived there from the summer of 2009-the summer of 2010, and while I don't think I stepped inside that church (or did I, that rainy afternoon?) I met my friend there specifically so we could walk to Pierre Herme for macarons. We ate them at Cafe de la Mairie, and they were perfect as your eavesdropped-on gentleman thought.

8:11 PM, November 03, 2011  
Anonymous pRiyA said...

your photographs are awesome.

10:23 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger at the table with annie said...

I, too, Love St. Sulpice. Once on a trip to Paris with my sister, she played the organs in all the great cathedrals, and I had a different perspective sitting in one of those chairs than I had on previous trips simply walking in and looking. Now, when I go, I always try to sit for a time and look from my heart. The contrast of the small chair and the soaring heights of the church are intended to call us beyond ourselves, non? That you are drawn to the church this way is perhaps a knocking on the door of our heart. Paris does this. Keep writing, the door may open yet.

10:39 PM, November 03, 2011  
Blogger alanachernila said...

I had a lonely and (now that I can look back on it) wonderful trip to Europe when I was 18, and I ended up spending most of it in churches. The cold stone smell, the sound of shoes walking on the marble floor, the whispering! You've brought me right there with this one... thank you.

5:03 AM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger Brit said...

wonderful stories. :)

6:21 AM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger Krysta said...

Such a beautiful post! LOVE it. Guess what? for my 30th birthday my husband is taking me to San Francisco and Seattle to visit my sister. We are going to eat at Delancey!!! SO EXCITED, you have no idea. :) Any recommendations? Keep having fun in beautiful Paris.

7:03 AM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger momma2O said...

This was really beautiful! I wish I had visited St. Sulpice when I went to Paris but didn't get to. Also, reading this post made me realize what I love about your photos...you don't try to capture the "best" shot of something (as in, straight on, centered, etc.), but rather a moment, a mood, an atmosphere. Love that.

7:05 AM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger Victoria Challancin said...

I love St. Sulpice as well. On a recent trip to Paris I had a magical experience there: As I approached the church, a newly married couple and entourage were emerging, complete with Gospel singers in full garb. They were singing a cappella. Absolutely joyous and purely magical. Fixed in my brain and heart forever. Every marriage should have such a splendid send-off.

9:28 AM, November 04, 2011  
Anonymous Hannah said...

Such a lovely, thoughtful post. I sighed deeply after reading it.

9:53 AM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger jenmolin said...

This post brought back memories.. I attended mass at Notre Dame on Easter Sunday 2001.. wore a skirt too and recalled my days at catholic school .... loved trying to say the responses in french... I feel more in awe in these grand ancient churches, my mind quiets down and I understand the purpose of the sky scraping ceilings... to feel closer to God and His purposes for our lives.... I will remember my grandma too

9:57 AM, November 04, 2011  
Anonymous Connie said...

Thank you for sharing this with me. I appreciate it.

10:12 AM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger AmyCSings said...

I always love your writing and this post is very beautiful. I loved visiting St. Sulpice for a really geeky opera singer reason: fictitious home to Manon Lescaut of novel and 2 operas fame. One of my favorite Paris memories involves St. Sulpice and a Parisin walk with crepe in hand. ah, bliss!

10:22 AM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger banderson said...

Williams-Sonoma has those Alain Milliat nectars as well, in case you need a fix back home! So thankful that you have shared Paris with us!

10:28 AM, November 04, 2011  
Anonymous Suzie said...

Loved your description of "your" church. It is most definitely a place of wonder. As if innumerable prayers hover in a hush, waiting for the addition of our sighs.

10:41 AM, November 04, 2011  
Anonymous Jean Gogolin said...

You took me back there, Molly; thank you. I also love St. Chapelle, near Notre Dame, which has the most beautiful windows in the world. It amazes me to think they were removed for safekeeping during WW II -- how did they do it?

One night my husband and I saw a poster outside St. Chapelle for a concert that night of women singing Gregorian chant -- and of course we went. I'll never forget it.

11:49 AM, November 04, 2011  
Anonymous Julia said...

hi molly, i walk past saint-sulpice when i go for a run in the luxembourg gardens. it never gets old. considering you affinity with the area, you might enjoy the app i developed, Paris Impressionist Walking Tour #3.

11:59 AM, November 04, 2011  
OpenID kboehnlein said...

I love your travel musings! Churches are always so soothing to me too, not necessarily because of their spiritual significance but because of their tall ceilings and scents of "stone." I know exactly what you're talking about with this. I wrote a similar description of Grace Cathedral in San Francisco about a year ago: http://kboehnlein.wordpress.com/2010/11/17/grace-cathedral/

I love your writing!

2:12 PM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger GG said...

Saint Sulpice was part of my childhood too. My uncle and Aunt lived just outside Paris and we would spend long afternoons sitting outside a cafe nearby. Even for a small child the space, silence, smell and flickering candles made it a very special place.

2:38 PM, November 04, 2011  
Anonymous Marie Poulin said...

My favorite church is Sainte Anne de Beaupre in Quebec.

4:43 PM, November 04, 2011  
Anonymous Janne said...

Ahhh, this reminds me of last year, when my husband and I landed at St. Paul's Cathedral in London. It was magic. I heart the chairs in your picture... we stayed for Evensong.

6:02 PM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger jeanne said...

We love St Sulpice, too. We've been there twice on Palm Sunday, and despite speaking almost no French we felt completely included and part of the community. It was beautiful. After the service on most any Sunday there is an organ concert and you can climb the winding ancient stairs to watch (and even talk with, which he can do while playing and speaking maybe 5 different languages) the organist. It's really magical.

7:17 PM, November 04, 2011  
Blogger Sasha said...

i did not grow up around churches. i only began to know them when i started studying art history. i remember being 18 and traveling through Europe and feeling so sophisticated(wearing skirts and attending classical musical concerts, too).

i particularly remember walking around the Vatican and deciding to take off my shoes. i love how the marble floor of a church feels on bare feet. this one gesture has become a ritual i practice when in the loveliest of churches.

8:19 AM, November 05, 2011  
Blogger lindatoll2 said...

I heard the chairs too! That was my favorite picture. Love your posts Molly.

11:12 AM, November 05, 2011  
OpenID girlseeksplace said...

Beautiful post. A great tribute to the women in your family.

1:04 PM, November 05, 2011  
Anonymous Dana said...

I love Saint Sulpice! When my husband and I visited Paris three years ago, we stayed at Hotel Relais Saint Sulpice, right next door. It was quiet and affordable and lovely, and we felt as if we were staying in a "neighborhood" rather than a touristy area. Having Pierre Herme right around the corner was a huge plus!

2:33 PM, November 05, 2011  
Blogger hannahalehandra said...

Lovely story! I've been to that church. Kiss from England.xo http://hannahalehandra.blogspot.com/

3:23 PM, November 05, 2011  
Anonymous Mel said...

Certainly love some churches for their sense of gravity, that sense of something "bigger than this"... The one you write of sounds so beautiful... and it sounds like it touched your soul. So glad! Hope you get to visit often.

10:02 PM, November 05, 2011  
Blogger Kevin Graves said...

you paint beautiful pictures with words. And the photos are great too. So glad my friend told me to check you out! Loved the "footballers" part.

12:27 PM, November 06, 2011  
Anonymous Merrymom said...

thanks for sharing these photos. I went to Paris and stayed a week, once, about 20 years ago. It was a 3 week trek with 2 friends. I still cherish the photos I took when I went on that trip. I don't know if I'll ever make it back there again.......but it was so nice to hear about your trip and see the photos you have taken...
hope to see more photos from your trip!

12:54 PM, November 06, 2011  
Blogger Piera said...

Beautiful church. Beautiful post. Last September I stayed in an apartment aroung the corner on Rue Guisarde for 2 weeks, and I often walked past and into Saint Sulpice. My mother always reminds me to light candles in churches and cathedrals.

3:47 PM, November 06, 2011  
Blogger ting said...

Thank you for sharing those beautiful photos and your memories. I just stumbled upon your site recently and it has inspired me to get back into blogging. And to travel to Europe!

6:30 PM, November 06, 2011  
Blogger Catherine said...

Your photographs are just lovely! The light inside holy places is often glowing in just that perfect way. I love Sainte Sulpice, and the Pierre Hermé on rue Bonaparte was my favorite place to go for an afternoon treat when I lived in Paris. I miss it so.

5:53 AM, November 07, 2011  
Blogger tori said...

How I love that church. I went to a Christmas service there with my sister nine years ago. One of the most beautiful things I've ever done.

9:40 AM, November 07, 2011  
Blogger caroline said...

I've been swooning over your travel photos, and trying to learn from them as well. I love the quiet details that capture the emotion of a place, but I always feel obligated to include photos of the "big stuff" like entire buildings and broad streetscapes. Do you take lots and lots of pictures and curate them later, or focus your energy on just these ones (even if you're leaving out some of the obligatory subjects)?

10:48 AM, November 07, 2011  
Anonymous DessertForTwo said...

Gosh, Molly. Your writing makes me slow down and relax, yet also makes me reach for my pen to write too.

11:14 AM, November 07, 2011  
Anonymous Ms. T said...

Thank you for transporting me for a moment, as you always do, through your beautiful photos and writing. It makes this atheist want to go to church. But instead, I think I'll call my grandmother and tell her I love her.

12:39 PM, November 07, 2011  
Anonymous Rebecca said...

Molly, your pictures of St-Sulpice are magnificent !
They make me wanna go one of these days, it's tunring cold here...
And hey, Catherine Deneuve ABSOLUTELY lives there !
Your Pierre Hermémade me smile...The previous tenant of my new home is a baker at PH, and he looks like a rapper :)

12:01 PM, November 08, 2011  
Anonymous christy said...

Saint Sulpice is my favorite church in Paris, too. (Well, it's my favorite church in the world, actually.) I never understood the "gloomy" complaint, either. Majestic is the word.
Thanks for the post and the glorious pix!

2:17 PM, November 08, 2011  
Blogger Victor WiNn said...

Wow.. Nice photos.. I am currently still learning to be a photographer, I just made my blog and this is very inspiring for me.. I hope I can learn a lot from you..

6:26 AM, November 09, 2011  
Blogger Jane said...

Haha, I loved the bit of two frenchmen dissecting the flavors of macarons. Your photos are beautiful. I wish I was in Paris again!

8:41 AM, November 09, 2011  
Anonymous degan said...

I do love Saint Sulpice. My husband and I visited it (again for me) this spring on our honeymoon and while the trip was rushed in a lot of ways, that day the light was perfect and there was a choir. We sat and listened until we'd had our fill and listened to the fountain and the bells. It could have gone on for days.

11:00 PM, November 09, 2011  
Anonymous Eileen said...

I love the photo of the angel in the window. What is it about silhouettes that speaks to my heart?

12:04 PM, November 10, 2011  
Blogger Eireann said...

I found St-Sulpice via one of my favorite poems ('Ceriserie', by Joshua Clover: http://www.poets.org/viewmedia.php/prmMID/19130). I always go there when I am in Paris, too.

12:04 PM, November 10, 2011  
Blogger Maria's Dinner Table said...

Hi Molly, I recently discovered a book that you might like. It's called The Geometry of Love by Margaret Visser. Her church of choice is Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura in Rome.

4:41 PM, November 10, 2011  
Blogger Cheilita said...

you are so dear and sweet. this is such a nice window of sentiments.

4:37 PM, November 17, 2011  
Blogger Christie said...

these photographs are so very, very lovely.

9:00 PM, December 26, 2011  
Anonymous kc in Michigan said...

Wow. I stumbled here from the soggy bread post *I have never had it but it sounds yummo, btw*... and find myself transported into the past and inspired to dig out the albums and diaries from a European trip with my folks. Healthy and in their 90's, the evil-that-is-dementia has robbed them of so many memories. I'm sure this is just the ticket to spend a lovely afternoon! We attended Mass in a different amazing church every Sunday during our 7 month journey through 11 countries via VW camper in the early 70's. Wonderful post and pictures! Thank you for sharing, I look forward more!

9:26 AM, December 29, 2011  
Blogger The Weekend Gourmet said...

What a lovely post. My favorite church is the Duomo in Milan. It's the most majestic thing I have ever seen. I had gone to the roof and found these carvings of birds, flowers and fruit in such great detail on the marble. That church was just so beautiful inside and out, and with such solemnity, like a grand old lady watching over the city.

6:51 AM, January 08, 2012  
OpenID matchadippedbaguette said...

I've read through so many of your entries, and each is beautifully written with a quiet grace. Your descriptions makes me want to visit the places too!

6:53 PM, January 22, 2013  

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