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10.21.2011

October 15

Hi, friends.

I’m in Paris now.

I know I just typed that as though it were nothing, but what I meant was: I’M IN PARIS NOW! That sentence should always be written in all caps, with an exclamation point.




I took the train down from London on Wednesday, and I’ve been staying with a friend. From where I’m sitting on the pullout sofa in her living room, I can hear a moped in the square outside and Night Moves on the stereo in the kitchen. She and her husband are sitting in there, at the counter. He’s doing a crossword puzzle, tapping his fingers in time. They’ve been good to me.




I shot a whole roll of film in twenty minutes yesterday morning! I’m an animal. Who knows what today holds.




These shots, however, are from London. Apologies for any confusion. I still have a lot to show you from London. I don’t know when or where I’ll be able to get my Paris rolls developed, or any of the rolls I shoot from here on out. I guess we’ll stay in London for now.




This was October 15, a Saturday. We began at St. John Bakery, under the railway arches on Druid Street. I guess it’s part of the market that has sprung up along Maltby Street, but it’s technically on the Druid Street side, under arch #72. If you go, do as Brian taught me: get the custard doughnut. (That’s what you see in the second photo, above.) Then go around the corner to Monmouth, get a filter coffee, and if it’s not raining, sit on a folding chair outside to eat. Don’t forget a napkin. These are messy doughnuts. More to the point: sexy doughnuts. I wanted to get a room with mine.

(Brian had a doughnut filled with blackberry jam. I didn’t taste it, but he said it was great. Still, get the custard.)






Later, an afternoon at the Drapers Arms.




I had a Camden Hells and my first pickled egg and crisps.




My friend Christophe showed me how to do it. He opened a bag of salt-and-vinegar crisps (known to us Americans as chips), dropped the egg inside, and shook the bag. The egg was now covered in crumbs and vinegary salt. Not bad. Not bad at all.




I feel glad for good friends today.




Happy weekend to all.

74 Comments:

Blogger london bakes said...

Your pictures are just gorgeous, I love the light you capture.

3:12 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Kay G. said...

Molly,
So happy that you made it to Paris! I have been reading your blog for years, I love the way you write. For years I have been leaving comments but since my comments have grown so long, I decided to have my own blog. I'm a bit rubbish at it at the moment, but I hope to improve. Once again, very happy for you! (I left a comment on your London post, and told you to watch out for bikes!)

3:20 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger la ninja said...

good friends (and good crisps) are crucial to a fulfilling life.

3:25 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Kristin said...

If you'll be back in London, you might like to check out the four food trails The Guardian published this summer. Just do a search for 'Guardian London food trails' and you should be able to find them, they look excellent. But for now I hope you're enjoying your Paris adventure!

3:39 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Victoria said...

My friend Jane sent me an email yesterday asking if I would be up to five days in Paris in January. I thought about what you're doing now and decided five days would be perfect because then I could go to London. Your trip in reverse!

As always, you're an inspiration!

Have a great time.

3:45 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Gemma said...

Sexy doughnuts indeed! Such a great day, more soon xo

4:04 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Eleanor said...

Keep snapping away...love these gorgeous photos!

4:47 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Olga said...

such.beauitiful.photos. :)

4:56 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous jennifer said...

so happy you've made this trip, traveling perhaps a different path than initially intended, but nonetheless inspiring and fulfilling for you. bon voyage, indeed.

5:51 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Anne said...

You should go to Négatif Plus, right across from the Poissonnière metro stop. If you get there before 1pm, you get your negatives back before closing (though usually, between 4 and 5pm).

Looking at your photos, I'm really sad that I never got to go to Monmouth.

6:02 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger GirlSavorsLife said...

Living vicariously with a dusting of envy. Sounds like a marvelous (and yummy) trip.

6:07 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Kelsey said...

Your adventure is different than what you had been planning on but an adventure none the less...so glad you went and made it all the way to PARIS.

6:10 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Beth @ Remarkably Domestic said...

Now, if only they had a doughnut that had *both* custard and blackberry jam. *sigh*. I guess I'd just have to eat two.

6:10 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Molly said...

I think getting the custard doughnut is an excellent life rule.

So happy to hear you've made it to Paris. Such good news!

6:32 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Sue/the view from great island said...

The pickled egg and crisps sounds interesting, but I think I'll hold out for a custard doughnut. I just made your Salted Peanut Butter Cookies, they're wonderful!

6:36 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Su-Lin said...

And just like that you've had one of the best things in London - that custard doughnut!

6:58 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Amanda Hawkins said...

Craving that doughnut already. Now, when can I hop a plane to London...oh logistics!

7:09 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Ann said...

The doughnuts! The pictures! So lovely and, well, I just want to be there. Envy? Maybe, but I'll take what I can get, so keep the posts coming.

7:14 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Barbara of London said...

Glad you are at your "home away from home" again. Question on the egg, what state is the egg in, is it hard boiled, poached, I hope not raw? I want to try and want to make sure my egg is the way it should be. Let me/us know when you get a breather.

7:25 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Roberta said...

Sheesh! It all looks so beautiful. The best thing about your globe trotting is that it has increased your blog posts! Have fun and enjoy. I mean really, really enjoy.

7:38 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Kristine Kelly said...

Reading your words reminds me of all the wonderful times I have spent with good friends in London and Paris, thank you for triggering such happy memories!

7:51 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger jen said...

excellent photos. i feel like i was there with you (i wish!)

7:57 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Mel said...

Dear Molly, so glad to hear you got to Paris in the end regardless! I am looking forward to each post you share on London/Paris. I was in both places in December, but seeing it through your eyes (as I am sure many of your readers will attest) is truly something wonderful.

7:57 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger jen said...

Excellent photos. I feel like I was there with you {i wish}!

7:58 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Imwaytoobusy said...

I just love these posts. It is nice to be able to live vicariously through you during your trip :) I may have gone with the blackberry jam, too. I am a sucker for a good jam! As always, beautiful photos. It looks like you are doing a wonderful job of salvaging your trip.

7:59 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Krysta said...

Are you kidding me with that custard donut!? Yes, I will definitely be getting that if I ever make my way out that way. Enjoy Paris!

8:04 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

gosh, that egg sounds revolting. reminds me of many revolting meals in england during my three years of grad school! we did love escaping to paris though!

8:11 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger A Day That is Dessert said...

Wonderful, Molly. xoxo

9:14 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous sally said...

Yay for you Molly! No place like Paris. Wish I was there too. Enjoy every moment. Be sure to hit the street market on Rue Clair. Fabulous. I forget which days is goes. Your friend will probably know.

9:29 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Elizabeth @ Saffron Lane said...

Yes! You made my weekend. I'm so happy you decided to go and can't wait to live vicariously through your next set of shots.

9:39 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger the starving student said...

I love Paris, it is such a surreal feeling to actually be there and see everything from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre and all of the little, hidden local places too. You are going to have such an amazing time!

9:43 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Natalie said...

wow so amazing. i love the pickled eggs + crisps idea!!! i studied abroad in florence italy last year, and my home away from home was definitely london. it felt so comfortable but exciting at the same time. i had monmouth coffee while i was there and it was delightful. my roommate was studying abroad in paris at the time so i visited her and loved the fresh baguettes, the cheese, and the crepes. oh and the butter, parisian butter is great! loving your photos and they really bring me back to my memories of last year.

10:28 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Hayley @ Oat Couture said...

Molly, I have been following your blog for a long while now although for some reason, have never commented. Seeing your post today (as I almost squealed in excitement for you) I felt compelled to write. Really glad you made it to Paris even if it's not quite the way you had planned. I hope you have an amazing time and can't wait to read all about it! :)

10:30 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Stephanie said...

Beautiful photos. I just love stopping by to see what you are up to. Have an amazing time.

10:32 AM, October 21, 2011  
OpenID lizlemonnights said...

These photos are spectacular, thank you for sharing!

Are the custard doughnuts like kurimu-pan (Japanese cream pan)? They're probably my most favorite pastry ever. No really.

10:33 AM, October 21, 2011  
OpenID themoveablefeasts said...

I love the pictures of London. Sometimes it's easy I think (at least for me) to side-sweep places like London for cities like Paris because... well, it's Paris. Your photos are a nice reminder that lots of places in the world are beautiful--especially with friends!

Enjoy Paris!

10:35 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous cluckhardt@gmail.com said...

Great that you made it! I'll also be in Paris this weekend and have time on Sunday if you want to meet up with a total stranger (but admiring one, I love your blog!).

10:39 AM, October 21, 2011  
OpenID girlseeksplace said...

Gorgeous photos. I love that you should with film.

10:47 AM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Hannah said...

So happy to hear you're in Paris now! Your time in London sounds (and looks) lovely. Terrific idea with the egg and crisps...I think I'll have to try that. Enjoy your weekend!

11:01 AM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Katherine said...

Oooh, so exciting! I live right round the corner from Maltby Street and sometimes the smell of roasting coffee from the Monmouth St crew makes the area for three streets around smell all burnt and sweet and wonderful at the same time. So glad you visited our somewhat grotty corner of South East London. If you're back in London there are a lot of quite fancy places to eat on Bermondsey Street now. Hope you continue to enjoy your trip.

12:39 PM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Dee said...

Oooooo...the pickled egg in the salt and vinegar chips sounds wonderful!

12:44 PM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Elissa said...

BLISS! Hurry and get more pictures developed soon so I can swoon.
(I rhymed. How about that?)
Sexy donuts? How gorgeous.......

2:31 PM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Ginger G said...

... how exciting, keep the posts coming! Great to have such good friends.

4:05 PM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Julia said...

I had a similar experience with a beignet the other night. It happened to be paired with cardamom honey...at a Moroccan feast...at the Pantry at Delancey. I tried to eat it as slowly as possible. Delicious!

4:15 PM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

You have the most AMAZING eye. Never a bad shot. Loved all of the pics.

5:29 PM, October 21, 2011  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

You might check out FNAC in Paris to have your film developed. I haven't lived in Paris in a number of years however, FNAC used to be reasonable and did a good job. PS. I love your blog! Leanne

5:40 PM, October 21, 2011  
OpenID carlyloves.com said...

Beautiful photos! I feel like I'm right there with you.
Also, I feel the need to tell you that I had a Spilled Milk marathon the other day. I listened to four episodes in a row as I made dinner. Fantastic!

5:44 PM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Helen and Evan Robinson said...

Hey Molly, I have just started reading your blog... which I came across by accident..or maybe not! Enjoy your time in Paris and London. I reckon you should come for a holiday to Australia!

6:07 PM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger sonrie said...

yay!

6:15 PM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Natashia said...

Yay! You made it to Paris! I love Paris, would do anything to get back there. Enjoy :)

9:46 PM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Katie said...

Hey Molly,

I was heartbroken for you that your Paris plans didn't work out as hoped...but I'm excited for you and the new seat-of-your-pants adventure that can only come from previous disappointment. Looking forward to hearing all your stories! Take care!

11:34 PM, October 21, 2011  
Blogger Elizabeth said...

Hi Molly,

Welcome to Paris! My husband and I have been here for two weeks and we're delighted! I hope you enjoy your stay!

I'm not much of a doughnut person, only eat them every now and again, due to a tragic jelly-filled experience. But I'll be sure to head to St. John Bakery to try them!

Merci et bon voyage!

Elizabeth

1:35 AM, October 22, 2011  
Blogger anya said...

That's the spirit, that's the adventure. So happy for you!!

2:25 AM, October 22, 2011  
Anonymous lauren@spicedplate said...

YEAY! So glad that you're in Paris now, and in the company of good friends. I'm loving your London photos...my husband and I dream of going there one day soon -- his dad lives in England and I haven't met him yet...and he's 74, originally from wales, and seems to have a lot of character...so I'm excited to eventually meet him, someday. Keep the visuals coming!

3:58 AM, October 22, 2011  
Blogger sb_89 said...

I'm a Pacific Northwesterner currently studying in London, so I was super happy to see your posts about London! My friends and I had planned a visit to Maltby street for a while and we finally went today - Monmouth coffee and custard donut were a fabulous combination :)

10:11 AM, October 22, 2011  
Blogger Michelle Stiles said...

love the photos and the adventure. keep it coming!

10:47 AM, October 22, 2011  
Blogger la femme said...

Lucky you!

12:18 PM, October 22, 2011  
Blogger BarbaraM said...

BarbaraM -check out Carl Marletti's bakery near Rue Mouffetard for the wonderful eclairs and macaroons; I was there last month and it was a wonderful experience wandering in that area.

3:24 PM, October 22, 2011  
Blogger Jean said...

Like everyone else I love your blog and photos. But I have to ask . . . film?????

5:41 PM, October 22, 2011  
Blogger Urban Girl said...

Enjoyed your photos...
Is that a cooked Egg or a raw one?
Looking forward to your posts and pictures from Paris. Bon Voyage.

10:59 PM, October 22, 2011  
Anonymous gretchen said...

Just missed you at St John. I didn't know about the donut, darn. I had a terrine, followed but Venison liver and turnips, and a wonderful lemon sorbet and cold vodka chaser. I rolled out of there.

6:52 AM, October 23, 2011  
Anonymous Lynne said...

So glad to hear that you are enjoyong your trip. Your husband makes the best pizza I've ever tasted - but Monmouth make the best coffee!!

10:27 AM, October 23, 2011  
Anonymous brenda said...

YAY for PARIS!!!! I LOVE PARIS!! Have a great time Molly.

10:59 AM, October 23, 2011  
Anonymous LisaW said...

First London and now Paris...

*sigh*

I want to be you when I grow up!

6:20 PM, October 23, 2011  
OpenID vulnerablepulp.com said...

you capture each moment so beautifully!

6:37 PM, October 23, 2011  
Blogger tori said...

So glad you had a great time in London. Those ejaculating donuts from St John are dangerous stuff. I learned very quickly to eat them bending over, like I was drinking from a bubbler.

6:46 AM, October 24, 2011  
OpenID theteacupchronicles said...

I'm a little jealous, I must admit, especially of your custard doughnut :) Glad you're having a great time, and allowing me to live vicariously through you for a moment!

11:31 AM, October 24, 2011  
Blogger Molly said...

Hi, all!

To those who expressed concern: the egg is hard-boiled. Definitely not raw! Hard-boiled and pickled.

Thanks for so many kind comments. It makes me happy to share this trip with you...

12:31 PM, October 24, 2011  
Anonymous Cookie and Kate said...

Lucky, lucky girl! Beautiful photos. I dream of the day when I get to go back to Paris!

7:01 PM, October 24, 2011  
Blogger kristina - no penny for them said...

oh. your photos! quite wonderful, and more.

glad you made it to paris. have the best of times.

6:29 AM, October 25, 2011  
Blogger Sasha said...

film is sexy.

also, i could go for a sexy doughnut right about now.

9:47 AM, October 25, 2011  
Anonymous Allison said...

All I can say is custard doughnuts? Yes Please. Those look amazing! Great photo.

11:19 AM, October 26, 2011  
Anonymous Lucy said...

I live in London but have never been to Arch 72 in Druid Street. Inspired by these pictures and the fact that I am the proud owner of the Doughnut King of the World (11 year old Harry) we went last Saturday. All I can say is Oh My God! We will be back. The Doughnut King awarded the custard doughnut 1 million out of 10. Thanks for the tip.

10:03 AM, November 10, 2011  
Anonymous habi said...

so so so exciting - it's been a long time since i visited paris but next time i do, it will be with detailed planning, down to every second spent in the city. btw i got a copy of your book and will be ravishing and eating all of it up!

will you be writing another book?

5:38 PM, January 03, 2012  

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