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11.26.2007

Refilled and refueled

Oh my. That was nice.

It may have swooped down suddenly upon me, but Thanksgiving landed with a gentle bump and the merest, softest sigh. It was quiet and slow, with plenty of time for cookies and wine and “Pass the Baby” (our favorite game when there’s an infant around, namely my niece Mia) and slices of pie for breakfast. Over the course of five days, some of us never even left the house, and those who did went only for important things like green beans, brownies, beer, and walks around the neighborhood. Brandon wore pajamas for two days straight. We slept on an egg crate mattress pad in the living room, and the flue in the fireplace wouldn’t shut, so cold air billowed through the room, but under two blankets and one fuzzy throw, we slept until almost eleven every morning. I don’t know the last time I slept that late, except maybe the morning after my senior prom. It was just what I needed.

Of course, there was also a roasted turkey with lemon slices tucked under its skin, which I needed too. And my mother’s stuffing with pork sausage and spinach and almonds and brandy, which I promise to tell you more about someday, because it really is the absolute best. Then there were Brandon’s trademark mashed potatoes moistened with a puree of caramelized onions and roasted garlic, and hashed Brussels sprouts with poppy seeds and lemon. There was also butternut squash roasted with chickpeas and curry, and cranberry sauce with red Zinfandel and orange peel, and cranberry chutney with crystallized ginger, and apple crisp and pecan pie. If you’ll believe it, we actually forgot(!) to buy shortening for the biscuits(!), so they had to wait a day, until Friday, but in the end, it worked out even better. They were just the thing to go with our day-after turkey soup, made with stock from the simmered carcass, carrots, celery, and cubes of butternut squash. I made two batches of biscuits, but I should have made more, because some of us - though I won’t say who - got a little snarly at the table, sparring for the last few.

I’m telling you, there’s nothing to settle a person back into herself like five days under her mother’s roof, some Lillet on the rocks, a lot of food, and a husband who spends the better part of two days reading her manuscript and even says nice things about it, bless him, when he’s through. I still have a lot of work ahead of me, but I feel ready for the holidays, refilled and refueled, ready to put a pot of mulled cider on the stove and make the house smell like December.

And speaking of refueling, since you’ve been so kind to me lately - or, really, actually, all the time - I want to give you a recipe today that I’m especially pleased with. It’s a pasta dish with Brussels sprouts - ‘tis the season, you know; we’ve all got some knocking around the crisper drawer these days - and toasted pine nuts, bound together with the barest slip of cream. I think you’re going to like it. I sure do.



Those of you who subscribe to Gourmet might have noticed something similar in the November issue. That’s where I found the inspiration for this. It was tucked away in the “Ten Minute Mains” section: a pithy recipe for fettuccine with Brussels sprouts and pine nuts, an unassuming little ditty that, to tell you the truth, I almost completely skipped over. But my friend Olaiya made it, tweaking it slightly, and with all sorts of superlatives, told me how good it was. And she was right: it’s really terrific. A keeper, for sure. It’s my newest standby dinner. (The leftovers make a nice lunch too, but that’s just icing on the cake.)



It may not be much to look at, but the combination of Brussels sprouts and pine nuts is an inspired one, I assure you. They’re lovely on their own, but together, the fragrant, toasty nuts highlight and boost the sprouts’ naturally nutty qualities. They make for a flavor that’s almost addictive, which is a lot to say for a pasta dish. (I usually reserve that kind of praise for things involving chocolate.) In the original version of the recipe, the pine nuts were to be cooked with the Brussels sprouts, which made them a bit soggy for my taste, so I tweaked the method to toast the pine nuts separately, allowing them to hold onto their delicate crunch. I also added a dash of cream at the end for a dose of moisture, richness, and oomph. It’s the sort of thing you’ll want to make on many a chilly night, before you fire up a batch of apple butter or a batch of sablés. I know I will.



Pasta with Hashed Brussels Sprouts and Pine Nuts
Adapted from Gourmet, November 2007

¾ lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed
3 Tbsp. pine nuts
½ lb. dried pasta, preferably fettuccine or another long noodle
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
½ tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. heavy cream
Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving

In a food processor fitted with the slicing disk, slice the Brussels sprouts into a fine hash. Set aside.

Place a large pot of salted water over high heat.

While the water is heating, prepare the pine nuts. Place a large heavy skillet over medium heat. When the pan is warm, add the pine nuts and, shaking the pan frequently, toast until golden and fragrant. (Careful: they burn easily.) Transfer to a bowl or small plate, and set aside. Set the pan aside as well, but do not wash it: you’ll use it again in a minute.

When the water boils, add the pasta and cook until al dente.

While the pasta cooks, prepare the Brussels sprouts. Return the skillet to the stove, and place over medium-high heat. You want it to get quite hot. Add the olive oil and butter. When the butter has melted – it’s okay if it browns a little; mine did – add the Brussels sprouts and salt. Sauté, stirring frequently, until bright green and just tender, about 4 minutes.

If the pasta is ready at this point, drain it, reserving ¼ cup cooking water, and add it to the skillet with the cooked Brussels sprouts. Alternatively, if the pasta is not yet ready, transfer the sprouts to a large bowl. (You don’t want them to sit in the hot pan too long.) Either way, when the pasta is ready, toss it with the sprouts. Add the pine nuts and cream, and toss again. If the pasta seems a bit dry, add a splash or two of the cooking water.

Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and additional salt at the table.

Yield: 4 servings

64 Comments:

Blogger aubrey said...

it sounds like you had a wonderful time away. you deserved it! thanksgiving at your house sounds like a delicious event.. welcome back!

4:41 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger Jules said...

The pasta sounds good, but it's Brandon's mashed potatoes that I'm salivating for. Is it a secret recipe?
Jules
House of Jules

5:23 PM, November 26, 2007  
Anonymous Luisa said...

Well, I knew I was a fool for hashed Brussels sprouts, but with pine nuts AND on pasta? I may never eat anything else again. Your tweaks sound like they make the dish.

5:26 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger Ellen said...

yay, a new brussels sprouts recipe! with pasta! You're the best, Molly.

6:32 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger Shauna said...

Even though I loved my holiday celebration, you made Thanksgiving sound so fantastic I want a do-over on mine. Can't wait to see more of your holiday recipes, they never cease to inspire.

6:34 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger ACB said...

Can't wait to try this one!

Your Brussels sprouts in cream and Chard-Onion-Gruyere panade were my contributions to our Thanksgiving feast, and both were big hits! Thanks, as always, for sharing your passions with us.

6:38 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger Vincci said...

Mmm Brussels sprouts and pasta are on sale this week--I must try this!

7:46 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger Victoria said...

Well, it's lovely to hear from you again, and I'm so glad you had such a delightful Thanksgiving. It sounds perfect. And I actually do have some beautiful Brussels sprouts in the refrigerator. Since I have a business meeting that I suspect will go into the evening tomorrow, I know what I'm planning to have for dinner.

8:46 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger shauna said...

Oh my dear, it's that extra splash of cream at the end that did me in. Oh yes.

Your holiday sounds scrumptious. I know it's exactly what you needed. We ate and ate, one glorious bite of food after another, all made my our own personal Chef. The parents played Wii in the bedroom, and Elliott helped us to prepare everything. Really, it couldn't have been any better.

I owe you a phone call tomorrow. I can't wait to hear your voice. Welcome home, my friend.

(And who's this interloper Shauna who put up a comment before me!)

9:38 PM, November 26, 2007  
Blogger Alice Q. said...

ah lillet! It's a favorite around here lately too. Isn't it nice to sleep in?? Glad you had a good weekend, and that pasta sounds good too. Cheers Molly!

10:06 PM, November 26, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I subscribe to Gourmet. I read Orangette. I love both, but I am wondering when this string of Gourmet adaptations will give way for the original recipes for which I once lurked on this site.

10:45 PM, November 26, 2007  
Anonymous Lindsay said...

I love it!! Just the other day, I was having a heated discussion with my roommate about how she dislikes Brussel Sprouts. Such a travesty! My favorite method is simply roasted with plenty of butter, vinegar and salt. My mouth waters to think of all the choices of vinegars I would have if I were married to someone like Brandon! Swoon! You lucky girl! But I digress ... I'm going to make this for my roommate and not tell her what the lovely green ribbons on top are ... heehee! Let's see if she says she doesn't like them after this!! Thanks Molly! You are the best at reading my culinary mind :) Happy Holidays to you and yours! Let the cooking continue ... cheers!

11:13 PM, November 26, 2007  
Anonymous sandra said...

oh my, your blog made me so hungry. wonderful recipes. i'd better go cook some pasta. thanks for the inspiration.

3:01 AM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger Michelle said...

Molly, I must say, sounds like you have the perfect place to call home here in OKC: food, family, freinds, wine, beer, new babies, what could be better? OKC, however, does rank pretty low on the foodie scale. I'm impressed that you actually came from here. Really. For I find myself driving all over this stretched-out place in search of good groceries and takeout. The people are great, but food shopping is a daunting task. I was wondering if you knew of any good places to shop. I've heard rumors of a gourmet grocery coming to the Crestwood/Gatewood area. (I'm looking at houses there.) I would appreciate any input that you could offer. Also, what's this Lillith drink and how do you drink it?
Thanks!

4:32 AM, November 27, 2007  
Anonymous flo said...

Brussel sprouts? Addictive? They must be one of the remains of my childhood disgusts. Your pasta recipe may help to get over it, I have to try!
Many many thanks for your great blog.

4:42 AM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger Greg said...

Well, I'll be. I would not have thought to use brussel sprouts in pasta. And with cream too! The ones I get around here often have a metallic taste that I think would not do well in this dish, but I'll have to give it a go to see.

Greg Cooks

5:12 AM, November 27, 2007  
Anonymous Bobbie said...

Oddly enough, that is the epicurious (ie Gourmet) Recipe of the day, if you have the Google Widget. Your tweaks seem to improve the dish and your pictures do it better justice.

MM Brussel Sprouts!

5:20 AM, November 27, 2007  
Anonymous Maxine said...

Your Thanksgiving sounds lovely and so does this recipe! For Thanksgiving, my mom made a cold brussel sprout salad with pine nuts and a vinaigrette that was really tasty, and you're right - the pine nut-brussel sprout combo is really a winner! I'll have to try this one next time I crave carbs... :)

6:01 AM, November 27, 2007  
Anonymous Dana said...

Sigh, isn't Thanksgiving just the best?? It's like taking a "timeout" from life to focus on what makes life wonderful in the first place. And I am a HUGE fan of wearing PJs for two -- no, make that four -- days straight.

7:22 AM, November 27, 2007  
Anonymous Caroline in DC said...

Ok, I 'm trying to eat light this week, had all these low-carb/low-fat meals planned, and now you tempt me with this? I can normally resist heavy cream and pasta, but not when they're coupled with brussels sprouts and pine nuts...

7:40 AM, November 27, 2007  
Anonymous DC Sarah said...

Grad school final projects will be done in 2 weeks, at which time I plan on having a Saturday just for me, involving sleeping in, yoga, a museum visit, and a delicious dinner. This will absolutely be on the menu.

BTW, I made the cream-braised sprouts for not one, but two Thanksgiving dinners and had people clamoring for the recipe. By far the best sprouts any of us had ever tasted. I would have been happy eating just them :) Cheers, Molly!

8:00 AM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger Molly said...

Thanks for so many nice words, guys. You're wonderful.

Jules, Brandon is flattered that you would ask! His mashed potatoes are not a secret recipe - I don't believe in secret recipes! - but they change a little every time, so we don't really have a "recipe" to share quite yet. One of these days, I'll stand next to him while he makes them and write down every single step he takes...

Anonymous, I'm sorry you feel that way. I don't see that there's been a "string" of Gourmet recipes here; on the contrary, I post recipes adapted from all sorts of sources, as well as my own original recipes. That's what I've always done. And no matter the source, the version that I post has almost always been tweaked or rewritten in a way that I believe improves it: for example, in the case of this Gourmet pasta, it was actually somewhat lackluster before I changed up the pine nuts and added cream.

Michelle, I hear you - OKC is a tough place to be interested in food. It's especially hard to get great produce. My mother divides her grocery shopping roughly between three stores: Homeland (formerly Albertson's) at Britton and May, Akin's, and Crescent Market. She also stops at Mediterranean Imports & Deli on May every week for fresh mozzarella, Persian cucumbers, hummus, lavash, olive oil, that sort of thing. Big Sky Bread Company on Western has terrific cookies, and some of the "artisan" breads at the Homeland I mentioned above aren't bad. Aside from that, I'm really not sure what to tell you. I don't know about any gourmet stores in the making, although my mom tells me she heard a rumor that Whole Foods might open in Bricktown? Not sure if that's true. Oh, and as for Lillet, it's an aperitif, a fortified wine that's usually served over ice with a twist of orange. You can find it at most any liquor store. It comes in red and white varieties, but I prefer the white. So tasty...

9:01 AM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger Jenn said...

Yum, yum! I love unassuming spartan pasta dishes that require no fuss but always make me fuss afterwards about how delightful they were. I think I'll adapt my pan-seared brussle sprout recipe to this, slicing the cooked sprouts and tossing with the pasta. I'm drooling already!

9:21 AM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger Casey said...

Delighted to find a new post. Sounds as if the book ms. is nearly ready to submit. What a frabjous day that will be.

9:29 AM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger Flo Bretzel said...

A good idea for my kids to eat Brussels sprouts!

1:39 PM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger Shelby said...

I have always had an unapologetic love for brussel sprouts, even as a kid. What can I say? I shun social norms... This looks amazing and I cannot wait to try it.

2:21 PM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger red molly said...

New to your blog. I made the Brussels sprouts with pasta also this past weekend and you are right it is very delicious. God I love Lillet!

3:07 PM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger dizzle said...

I have never tried Brussels sprouts. What do they taste like? Somehow, they've just never been around! I look forward to running into you at Piecora's again. Happy winter!

3:58 PM, November 27, 2007  
Blogger tony said...

Brussels sprouts are great! Pasta is great! but together?? I will have to make this on the strength of the blog (even if it is not in Bugialli)!

12:52 AM, November 28, 2007  
Blogger Channing said...

Your food photography is wonderful. The photos with the empty baking-dish, the crumpled napkin, and open magazine are refreshing departures from current food photography cliches. It's inspiring, both photographically and gastronimically.

7:49 AM, November 28, 2007  
Anonymous EB said...

Oh Molly... what a fantastic 5 days! Cool air + fuzzy blankets + a loved one + sleeping in= heavenly.

11:46 AM, November 28, 2007  
Blogger shari said...

do you know that i still haven't tried brussel sprouts? best hop to it, huh? this recipe looks fabulous molly. loving your photos too. hugs.

5:40 PM, November 28, 2007  
Blogger Lisa said...

Oh, Molly! You are the doyenne of uncluttered, perfect recipes! The tastes I love best burst forth from just a handful of honest ingredients, and that's how almost all your offerings work. It's also so nice to look at a recipe, realize I've got everything in the pantry, and get myself immediately to the cutting board. I love to cook and have a well-stocked pantry -- and then the farm out the front door to boot -- but still, I keep an unfussy kitchen. It's always easy to make room at the table for your recipes.

I made this tonight, upping all the ingredients just a bit since Ali's got a big ole bottomless farmer belly (although where he keeps it, I don't know; not a strapping lad). Didn't have cream but added a generous splash of our creamy wonderful what-was-life-before-this raw milk, which worked fine, maybe just a bit less silky than it would have been with pure cream. If anything the dish got better as we ate more of it, getting to those wonderful caramelized dregs at the bottom of the pot.

Yum, thanks!

5:49 PM, November 28, 2007  
Blogger Cakespy said...

The brussels sprouts with pine nuts sounds like a wonderful combination: comforting, hearty, warm. Just what we need (especially on a day like this)in Seattle! But my favorite part by far was the bit about pie for breakfast. :-)

9:57 PM, November 28, 2007  
Anonymous nikkipolani said...

Tried your recipe last night - fabulous flavors just as you described. Thank you!

8:58 AM, November 29, 2007  
Blogger Mindy said...

Really pie tastes better for b-fast sometimes.....and I'm sure you are aware of the wonders of cold pie....

and this Lillet- I must investigate...

You always give me and itch to try something new out!

1:04 PM, November 29, 2007  
Blogger dynagrrl said...

I can't believe you are in Oklahoma! That's my home state, I am from Tulsa.

Love your blog!!!!

6:11 PM, November 29, 2007  
Blogger sheri said...

i just found your blog, and i love it! the recipes look amazing and your description of thanksgiving is so comforting! i am an author and love love love to cook so what a pleasure to find your blog~

5:55 AM, November 30, 2007  
Blogger Hillary said...

I'm glad you had a relaxing Thanksgiving Molly! I did too actually, staying with my brother in SEATTLE! :) It was my first time in Seattle...and it was glorious.

1:28 PM, November 30, 2007  
Anonymous mdvlist said...

I am eating this dish right now, with spinach pasta, and it is absolutely divine. This is the only b. sprouts recipe I've ever made that I would make again. The baby seems to be enjoying it, too . . . . Thanks for another fine, simple meal idea!

3:12 PM, November 30, 2007  
Blogger Shaun said...

Molly ~ In all of my life I have never had brussel sprouts. I think this is the result of my parents' school days of horribly boiled brussel sprouts for lunchl; it scarred them for life. I think of cabbage when I look at them and am not particularly moved. Your praise of the vegetable, however, is enough to coax me along. Although, now that I have moved to New Zealand (hopefully, temporarily), I will have to wait until March or April next year to *enjoy* them.

As for your mother's stuffing, the ingredients sound wonderful. Will it feature in your book?

You're preparations for December already make me miss cold climes...

5:36 PM, November 30, 2007  
Blogger Julie said...

The pasta sounds great. I'm in love with a Brussels sprout tart with pancetta and chestnuts I've been making--twice in Nov. alone. I get truly offended when people dare make derisive comments about brussels sprouts. Glad you had a nice holiday!

8:24 AM, December 01, 2007  
Anonymous Caitlin said...

Thought you might enjoy this:

http://cycleliciousness.blogspot.com/2007/11/byrned-rubber-and-gotham-ethics.html

1:03 PM, December 02, 2007  
Blogger Suzana said...

Wow, amazing combination! That's totally my kind of pasta dish - no fuss, great meals.

2:26 AM, December 03, 2007  
Blogger anne said...

I made this last night after spotting brussel sprouts in the store over the weekend. Thanks for the heads up idea with the splash of cream - it really helped make the dish. I even mocked my boyfriend because gah he was eating brussel sprouts and liking it!

11:07 AM, December 03, 2007  
Anonymous KatyBelle said...

I make almost the exact same thing, only I use bacon too. I've been making it since high school, when I got the Naked Chef cookbook for Christmas. yummy.

9:45 PM, December 03, 2007  
Blogger Megan said...

Good Lord, Molly. This was delicious. I used whole wheat noodles (surprisingly non-carboard-y) and upped the sprouts to 1.5 lbs. They were silky and sweet.

10:35 AM, December 04, 2007  
Anonymous swirlingnotions said...

So funny, Megan, I was going to say, "I'll bet this would be great with whole wheat fettucine." So . . . I'm glad to hear it is. By the way, I was only one of a slew . . . but I just nominated you for the Food Blog Awards ;-).

Swirling Notions

3:18 PM, December 04, 2007  
Blogger Lori Anderson Designs said...

Oh god. I gained ten pounds reading this.

5:52 PM, December 04, 2007  
Anonymous foodwoolf said...

Just happened to have a bag full of Hollywood Farmer's market brussels sprouts that needed cooking off...So I used your recipe and loved it! I added some sauteed lamb's lettuce from the market, as well and had myself a glorious monday lunch. Thank you so much for the recipe and your constant inspiration.

I look forward to seeing/reading your book!

Foodwoolf.blogspot.com

9:27 PM, December 10, 2007  
Blogger Caffeinated said...

OH MY GOSH that was good - thank you for the wonderful recipe! I have a whole new appreciation for Brussel Sprouts now - that was sooooo good. :-) Thank you Molly!

L

PS - I can't wait to try Brandon's mashed potatoes either! :-)

8:18 AM, December 11, 2007  
Blogger Tanya said...

Hi, Molly,
I tried this, but didn't have pine nuts so substituted toasted sesame seeds. Not quite the same, of course, but delicious nonetheless if you ever run out.

1:23 PM, December 12, 2007  
Blogger Patricia said...

Hi Molly!
I just tried this recipe and it's really, really good! It was also the first time I had ever eaten brussel sprouts! The flavor combination of the sprouts with the parmesan and pine nuts is really awesome. Thank you for posting this recipe.

12:10 PM, December 13, 2007  
Blogger Dan said...

Ever wondered what those Pine Nuts look like in the cone?

6:55 AM, December 18, 2007  
Anonymous applebranch said...

we tried your Brussel Sprout recipe, but tinkered a bit, using mushrooms instead of pine nuts, and sour cream instead of plain cream. The mushrooms were lovely; the sour cream perhaps not liquidy enough, despite our adding cooking water. Thanks, though! We had your Celeriac soup tonight, and it's a keeper.

8:51 PM, December 23, 2007  
Blogger Sarah said...

I made this last night with some brussels sprouts for out weekly CSA box delivery, grown just outside of Seattle-- wow, it was so delicious. We made one modification: sautéd some baby leeks and garlic. Next time, I plan to use fresh pasta. Its definitely a keeper.

1:29 PM, January 07, 2008  
Blogger Bex said...

looks amazing! i can't wait to try this!

10:29 AM, January 15, 2008  
Anonymous Barb in Canada said...

I discovered a recipe in the mid-80s in a vegetarian cookbook for sauteed finely sliced sprouts with mushrooms. I've been making it for years and converted lots of folks to that old staple vegetable. I've never added pine nuts, but have upgraded it with portobello mushrooms and as always lots of garlic. I used to serve it as a side dish, but when I tried the leftovers on pasta - culinary delight! And now I'm old enough to afford the best reggiano, it's even better.
I love this blog and will now have to buy Bon Appetit. Congratulations - they are lucky to have you.

3:52 PM, January 18, 2008  
Blogger Isabel said...

Tried in on friday night: so amazingly delicious. Thank you!

11:50 PM, January 19, 2008  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I just finished making, eating, and putting up the dishes from this meal, ahh I just remembered that I forgot the cream. Oh well, it was good anyway but in trying to incorporate more vegetables into my diet I used spaghetti squash instead of pasta. Kudos. I love the blog.

6:44 PM, February 05, 2008  
Anonymous Wendy said...

I have been trying for 3 weeks to find pine nuts in OKC, this is how I came across your lovely site! I want to make a fresh pesto. Can you ask your mom where she gets pine nuts? Thank you!!!!!!!!

5:28 PM, June 02, 2008  
Blogger Molly said...

Wendy, I think my mom buys her pine nuts at Mediterranean Imports. Have you been there? It's terrific. Here's more information.

Hope that helps!

8:56 PM, June 02, 2008  
Anonymous jordan said...

just found this recipe this week and love it! i've had a serious brussels sprouts addiction for the past few weeks, and was looking for new ways to use them. i added a touch of lemon to the end and it turned out great! thanks for such a light and easy recipe :)

9:36 AM, October 20, 2009  
Blogger the pink tink said...

mmmmmmmm this sounds delicious, will definately be trying it out. Thanks, great blog

5:53 AM, October 26, 2009  

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